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Old 12-07-2006, 10:08 PM
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124in. Engine Build (page 1)

This shows the pinion shaft/gear locking tool I use, two 1/4 x 20 screws hold it into place.



Picture 35 shows the same. Jim's Machine tool # 2237.



The last of the cam chest parts/hardware before installation. All parts are cleaned, and checked for any burrs.The breather's journal is checked for any burrs, and some assembly lube applied...and the breather slipped in. The cam bearing gets some Vaseline, and the dog eared thrust washer is placed against the case rear wall in front of the bearing...with the "slant pointing rearward and the dog ears pointing out resting on two shoulders in the case. (also visible in picture # 38) the thrust washer is slipped over the camshaft end, and slipped thru the thrust washer...into the bearing.



The breather in place, with the cam also installed...pinion shaft (flywheels) are rotated to a position where all timing marks line up as circled. Thanks LSCTommy...for the assistance. LOL. The breather gear shim is placed over the boss in the center of the gear.



With the camshaft end play being checked. I install a used gasket and torque the cam cover to about 12 ft lbs. A spoke or the ignition rotor screw is threaded into the cam end, and pushed and pulled both ways while a feeler gauge is used to check end play .007-.014 should work good here. Breather and cam shims are available in diff thickness'. get it right. Breather gear endplay .010-.015 will work, check it the same way, or use a straightedge across the used gasket, and a feeler gauge there.



Here LSCTommy verifying the same. The cam can also be moved to and fro by reaching into the lifter block hole and grabbing a cam lobe. At this point I pour 5/6 oz of oil into the flywheel cavity...replace the cam cover gasket with the real gasket, and torque the cam cover on with blue loctite..12 ft-lbs, criss cross pattern. This shows your tappets (lifters), tappet blocks, and also the cover for the crank position sensor.



Outside of case front left...I coat this gasket with clear silicone, and install screws with blue loctite, lightly snug them up...the tappets get a gob of thick assembly lube or Vaseline...to aid them in staying in the journals when the blocks are installed (just keeps them from sliding out) the blocks are checked for burrs, cleaned, and the flanges wiped with acetone. Also shown is Jim's machine tappet block alignment tool.



 

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Brent Mills
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Old 03-17-2007, 06:25 PM
Super Moderator
Very Nice Brad!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
 
Old 03-17-2007, 07:39 PM
Club Chopper Member
Terrific thread there Gypsy!! I really appreciate you taking the time to do this for us!
 
 
Old 03-18-2007, 03:01 AM
CC Member/Contributor
This site just keeps getting better, thanks for taking the time to do this, for me who just rides them, its nice to get some insite on how things go together and work. There are a lot of helpfull people around this site.
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Old 03-18-2007, 05:37 AM
CC Member/Contributor
Nice job Brad. Very nice job. This is a great tutorial.
You put a lot of time and effort into compiling all of the pictures and describing the process.
 
 
Old 03-18-2007, 10:29 AM
Super Moderator
I know who to call if I ever have a question related to motorcycles!
Thanks for all you've done for the members here, Brad!
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Old 03-18-2007, 12:59 PM
Club Chopper Member
thabk you for taking the time for tutorial
 
 
Old 03-19-2007, 01:36 PM
Awsome article Brad
CC Member/Contributor
WOW! I'm about to contribute to CC again. The value of info like this... If everyone on here could pony up just $10.00 or so once a year... You'd all be getting a great value AND BigB would be able to afford all the redundant goodies so we would never go down...

-Pete
 
 
Old 03-24-2007, 07:26 AM
Douchebaggery
Wow!!! How the hell did I miss this one? Great job Brad!!!
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Old 03-26-2007, 05:10 PM
Club Chopper Member
wow that articalwas just what i was looking for.thank you.even the harley shop could not explain . ajusting valve lash on the 124 thanks again chuck.
 
 

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